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by John & Rainer Rzucidlo
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I chose the Western Approach Route because
it allowed time to acclimatize and because I'd heard
it was particularly lovely. How lovely defies description.
For sheer drama, it's hard to beat a volcanic landscape
topped by glaciers under a tropic sky. I was personally
enchanted not just to be looking down on the tops of
clouds for days on end but to be part of a full fledged
adventure expedition! How the porters carried and set
up camp, cooked and took care of us was fascinating
. Our guide, Frederick, who pulled it all together,
could not have been more competent or more likeable.
His knowledge of the mountain was vast and his concern
for our welfare intense. I will always remember how
reassuring he was when I worried I was walking too slowly.
"That is the ideal way to climb Kilimanjaro" he said.
- Rainer Rzucidlo
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Setting out, Thurs. Sept 13th 2001, on a cool
misty morning at mosquito-free Machame Village Gate,
at 5,000'. Our group was smaller than expected since
our USA departure date had been September 11th. John
and I (center) and honeymooners Jeff and Jill (left)
had all left early, while Karen (third left) lived in
Hong Kong and John and Jack (right) were Canadians.
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Lunchtime on the way from Machame Camp (about
10,000') to Shira Camp (12,300'). We ate like this,
at a table with camp stools and waiter service every
single day.
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Kilimanjaro's snow capped summit overlooks a party taking
off to explore the steep Baranco Wall. We camped
in the Baranco Valley at about 9,000' for two nights
to aid acclimatization.
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The Baranco area was a beautiful place - a
highland garden of tussock grass decorated with large
strange plants that looked like cactus trees with pineapple
leaves. They were giant groundsels of a type that grow
nowhere else in the world.
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A view of our camp from the top of Lava Tower,
a conspicuous feature high on Kilimanjaro's barren "moonscape".
At 15,000 we were starting to pile on extra layers at
night.
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A surreal view from Arrow Glacier where Mount
Meru pokes its head above the cloud bank like an island
in a sea of white foam. It's the 7th night on the mountain,
we're at the foot of the Western Breach and it's
snowing lightly.
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We made it! - all thanks to Freddie (seated
front left). We couldn't have wished for a better
guide.
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The dynamic duo pose at Rau camp (10,800') the
day after summiting. The conquered peak is in the background.
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A fond farewell. Freddie (second right) leads
the other guides and porters in a good-bye song before
we get a ride back to Arusha.

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